My Hooded Cape

Hood

The hood was designed to join the cape at an acute angle to help it stay on the head better.

The lining was generously pleated as a fashion accent; the end cut off to reduce bulk and gathered with a hole to allow a fishing weight through to set the drape when not in use.

Other than that, you can secretly stash cash or maybe that note from that lecher down the road because you haven't quite finished giggling at it yet!

Arm Slits

Arm slits located within a joint using the bound cloth buttonhole method.  A simpler method can also be used.


Right side:
The ends are strengthened using fine zig-zag stitches.

Wrong side: I finished the slit by hand stitching to make it less visible. You may want to make the slit visible by using contrasting colours or thin leather/suede for a rugged look.

Cape

French seam used to join pieces rather than overlocking to reduce snagging, for a neat appearance and to withstand frequent laundering.  The bottom hem is bought bias binding.  A self-made bias binding of the same fabric would make the hem bulky.

To hide and protect 'beadwork' stitches, a wide front facing was applied.  A wide facing allows the fabric to drape better.  Weights placed in the hem can also be used to achieve this.

Arthur's Cape

An easy beginner's cape

Cape is made up of 4 pieces with a back seam and two located at the shoulders.  The shoulders are shaped.  French seams are used to join pieces.

Hem is self-folded.   Using bias-binding will reduce the crinkling of hems i.e. if you aren't bothered about period authenticity. The openings has wider hems for better drape.

Neck opening seemed to be faced with bias-cut fabric attached from the wrong side and folded over to the right side.





Beaded Embroidery



Beaded embroidery on pocket located below the shoulder using thread, glass beads and semi-precious stones.  Some of the beads and threads are close to the colour of the hood lining BUT you know the computer does not show true colours.

The pocket is double-stitched for strength and to support the weight of beads.  Thick interfacing used for the opening to stop pocket from sagging.





Accessories


I made a crystal tassel to help the hood drape better.

A hat pin to keep the hood on for windy days or as a lapel pin. I had it made at a custom jewellery shop using Swarovski crystals and fresh-water pearls.  The pin is a darning needle!







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Circular Cloaks & Capes - An Idiot's Guide

Updated 21st May 2013

created this blog because I wanted to make a hooded cape and was not able to find a satisfactory pattern with detailed design and construction methods

The cape is for daily use; not just for a one-off Halloween / cosplay.  It has to be good enough to appear in formal events.

I spent hours of research and more hours taking apart my project - cape with pointy hood especially the hood because I had believed the patterns found in the net would suit my requirements.  This is the hazard of being meticulous...lol!

Much information given was incomplete, inaccurate or misleading.  Apparently, there are many people who like to show off their creations but keep their trade secrets too!

I have much experience in clothes repairs and making made-to-measure garments akin to the kirtle for my clients.  I am now imparting my findings to you.


a kirtle

The rave in the full-circle cloak.

I tried this one and was disappointed I only managed a 7/8th circle.  I tried it on and believe me.....you'd probably snag it on the hollyhocks and tripped undemurely before you could squeak "Batman! Help me!".  Some 'Damsel in Distress' you'd be!


Full-Circle cloaks

Arthur's cloak:                 Perimeter of cape, 186" for a 6' manikin.

Standard cotton cloak:     Perimeter 174" for circa 6' height.

Let's take a realistic figure of 55" - about calf-length for a tall-ish person.  Forget the part that you have chopped off to accommodate the neckline and the difference in length where the shoulders are:-

The mathematics for the perimeter of a circle is 2πr where π is 3.142 and r is 55".

Perimeter of cape = 2 x 3.142 x 55" = 345" = 9 1/2 yards.

This is waaayyyyyyyyy too much fabric.  I made this mistake for believing what I have read.  Okay....test this by pinning 2 lengths of bedsheets.....about 180",  Drape it around yourself and see if you are comfortable with this.

345 ÷ 2 = 173"............this is a half-circle perimeter measurement....circa 4.8yds.

Well....when sale sites claim to offer a full-circle cape with perimeter of usually below 200", it is actually a full-cone cape.  Guess who was the sucker!!!!!  This was an expensive lesson in checking the mathematics rather than plunging headlong into a project.

Conclusion:
The full-circle cape is impractical and uneconomical.
The half-circle conical cape is more than adequate.





Suggestion:
Flaunt your boots by making a mid-calf-length half-circle conical cloak instead.  Save a lot of hassle faffing about corralling the length whilst trying to avoid horse droppings at medieval fairs.  What about mud, sleet or ripping the hem on twigs as you go gallivanting in the woods?


A mid-calf length rectangular cloak

I remade my cape to just over a semi-circle of mid-calf-length 45” with perimeter (after fitting…the shape is actually oval) 190”.

I found an old book on the net with hood patterns after I messed-up of course!


Some formal robes and patterns

Harry Potter hoods

I found blogs of avid Potter fans mentioning that hoods were modified but guess what?  No actual revised patterns were given.  I slogged, unpicked stitches redesigned by adding and taking away fabric, restitched and refitted, many, many times with a few breaks killing zombies (Plants Versus Zombies) before I finally settled for an acceptable look.

If the hood is a car, it would be a Mark 7.  Yeah! Precision engineering required to turn ‘How to make a cape in 2 hours’ i.e a kit-car into a Mercedes.

The look that I wanted:

• pointy hood
• no visible centre seam
• roomy 
• stiff enough hood opening 
• washing machine friendly

The hood looked something like this but with the pointy part longer and pointing further down; thus not sticking out too much.

 Liripipe

I am giving you the opportunity to share and/or learn techniques.  I am not going to reinvent the wheel but to put pneumatic tyres and racy spokes instead.  Please ask me questions especially if you are a novice.

No question is too simple such as:

What size needle should I use?” or you may go for the more complex e.g.

• The fabric for my hood is slightly short…..Help!!!!
• Why is it that the fabric becomes shorter at the joints after sewing?
• If I want to lengthen a cape….how?
• The durn hood is floppy at the opening….what would be the best stiffener that is also washing-machine friendly and how do I attach it? Forget the interfacing, folks!
• I want cape-to-hood joint to be smooth like this of Mordred's below.
• Does the hood look good if moved slightly back from the beginning of the neck opening or not?

Mordred

lined hood

unlined hood

I offer remedial measures for those who've messed up…….(your's truly messed-up too!!!).  Try to give relevant information with photos where necessary so that I can whip-up a specific-to-you potion. For difficult to visualize problems, I will include tutorial photos……I shall concoct new-to-you mini-lessons with contrasting fabrics and thread so you may see clearly.

Perhaps these questions may be relevant to you:

• What stitch length should I use and why?
• Is there a way to modify the hood so it will stay better on my head?
• How do I arrange the fabric to include gathers before cutting the neckline?  Will gathers affect the overall length?
• What should I do before purchasing fabric?  This is the most important consideration.

Questions need not relate to capes only but I shall contribute my sewing knowledge if I can; if not, then I shall lead you to other links whenever possible.


Points to ponder:
Is billowing acceptable?   Do you have gale force 8 there?

a showtime cloak

the untrippable knight?

Billowing pictures

Arthur's blue cloak showing behaviour of fabric during movement.

Observe: 

• does the hood joins to the cloak with or without a gap? Gathered for fullness?
• is it a circular or rectangular cloak? Does it have shaped shoulders?
• length from nape to point of hood if you want to have this generous hood style.
• last picture - the right side of hem dragged the floor. You may want to shorten your cloak a bit.

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