 | So, you want to make a cloak? Let me take you through the processes. Who can benefit from this blog? The novice even without a sewing machine. They don't have one during the Medieval Age anyway... The expert looking for design ideas. |
How to Make a Hooded Cape / Cloak
Hood Patterns
| Published 27th May 2013 |
se the square-shaped hood below as your basic pattern. Choose styles and measure your hood opening with care.
They can be further modified to your desired style.
| basic square hood |
A Moroccan burnoose uses the above method.
How a burnoose is worn.
Below are the shapes derived from the basic square:-
Lined Hoods
Hoods are lined to:
- add body to flimsy fabrics
- reduce/stop itching from rough fabrics
- anchor special fabrics to openings such as fur or heavy embroidery
Sometimes you may want to stiffen the opening to get the hood to behave. Stiffeners can be:
- buckram with glue
- glueless buckram
- interfacing with glue
- glueless interfacing
- high quality flat foam (akin to foam used for shoulder pads)
- dacron batting
- other fabrics such as denim or terry
- 1,2,3,4,5 will not withstand frequent laundering.
- 1,2,3,4,5 require hand-washing and upright storage with enough room to avoid other items crushing the stiffeners. They crease easily.
- 1 & 3 will cause thin fabrics to pucker and will be unsightly
- 6 & 7 withstand machine laundering and can be stored folded
Coming soon:
How to make a mock-up of your chosen hood
How to cut the hood
How to shape the hood-to-neckline joint
How to improve hood design
How to anchor stiffener
How to anchor lining
A Conical Cloak
| Updated 15th May 2013 |
his topic emphasise the wastage of using the cutting methods below.
Circular:
- half-circle
Triangular:
- 2-piece
- 3-piece
A conical cloak is the result of assembly of the above methods. The wastage is applicable to styles of cloaks with:
The assembled pieces are folded into a cone as shown in diagram below. The diagram shows where the original length will be further shortened......errr....where I messed-up.
Click image to enlarge
- wide / large necklines
- shoulders
- gathers on the necklines
The assembled pieces are folded into a cone as shown in diagram below. The diagram shows where the original length will be further shortened......errr....where I messed-up.
Click image to enlarge
Calculating extra fabric required to attain desired length:
Where neckline begins = extra length to be added to achieve desired length.
For a slim adult, the neckline is about 16". Assume neckline to be a circle with circumference 16". Radius is assumed to be length from apex to neckline.
2πr = 16
r = 16 ÷ ( 2 π)
r = 8 ÷ 3.142
r = 2.54"
2.54" will be the minimum length removed from the apex for full-circle cloak
If your cloak is conical,greater length will be removed because to get the same neckline measurement one needs to go further from the apex. To reduce the 'choke factor', the neckline will be increased to at least 22".
2πr = 22
= 22÷ (2π r)
r = 3.5"
3.5" will be the minimum length removed from the apex for a full-circle cloak
If you want to add pleats and shaped shoulder......greater length will be removed from the apex. I chose this one without thinking that a cone does not behave like a rectangular-based kirtle!
Weakness of method:
I have read on the net....Add 10" to the overall length - this is a logical figure. 10" x 2 lengths of fabric means purchasing another 20" to compensate for the wasted fabric above the neckline.
Those who love to enter pageants / to save the world from rubbish / to save money / to avoid headaches of calculations should use the trapezoid method instead.
If you wish to stick to the triangular cuts, you may use this cones calculator.
sk
Where neckline begins = extra length to be added to achieve desired length.
For a slim adult, the neckline is about 16". Assume neckline to be a circle with circumference 16". Radius is assumed to be length from apex to neckline.
2πr = 16
r = 16 ÷ ( 2 π)
r = 8 ÷ 3.142
r = 2.54"
2.54" will be the minimum length removed from the apex for full-circle cloak
If your cloak is conical,greater length will be removed because to get the same neckline measurement one needs to go further from the apex. To reduce the 'choke factor', the neckline will be increased to at least 22".
2πr = 22
= 22÷ (2π r)
r = 3.5"
3.5" will be the minimum length removed from the apex for a full-circle cloak
If you want to add pleats and shaped shoulder......greater length will be removed from the apex. I chose this one without thinking that a cone does not behave like a rectangular-based kirtle!
- The bigger the neckline, the more fabric is wasted
- The greater the amount of pleats and gathers, the more fabric is required.
- The wider the shaped shoulder, the more the cloak is shortened.
- Accuracy of calculaton is not for the mathematically challenged. I shan't start on the perimeter of base of cone.
I have read on the net....Add 10" to the overall length - this is a logical figure. 10" x 2 lengths of fabric means purchasing another 20" to compensate for the wasted fabric above the neckline.
Those who love to enter pageants / to save the world from rubbish / to save money / to avoid headaches of calculations should use the trapezoid method instead.
If you wish to stick to the triangular cuts, you may use this cones calculator.
sk
Fabrics for Cloaks and Capes
| Updated 15th May 2013 |
ome fabric samples for your design ideas:
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Coming soon:
- The modified Harry Potter hood that I have slogged through and tested.
- Different construction of arm slits.
- Joining pieces beautifully.
- Mapping neckline.
- Construction of shoulders (not as straight-forward as in blouses).
sk
Trapezoid Cut
Measurements
shoulder slope + length from shoulder = 1 fabric length
<=========> + <=============> = 1 fabric length
Determining width of <===>
I shall use the figure 22" as the size of finished neckline.
Total number of <===> = size of finished neckline
6 <===> = 22”
Therefore 1 <===> = 22 ÷ 6
≈3.5”
Make this figure 4". It will be smaller after joining.
For those skilled with joining narrow pieces, make the total number of <===> as 4 per length of fabric. If you can't fathom this, just use the figure 3 per piece. This will also result in same width fabric radiating from the neckline. Perimeter of hem will be reduced by total number of <===>. The difference will not be much.
Joining the trapezoid cut cloak
The above diagram is based on 3 lengths of 54"-wide fabric. The extra trapezoid was made into a 'Harry Potter' hood. The shoulder is not shaped.
Measurements:
8 <===> = circumference of final neckline (10 <====> if you prefer to sew narrow pieces).
There was no hem allowance because the shoulder slope already provides for it since the neckline starts at the beginning of the shoulder slope. Neckline will be smaller after joining and this becomes the neckline hem allowance.
Conclusion:
- The trapezoid cut is best for gathers, wide necklines and shaped shoulders.
- The triangular cut is best for cloaks without shoulders and small necklines.
- The circular cut is fine for thick blanket-like fabrics or if drape at the back of cape is unimportant.
ss
3-Piece Triangular Cut
| Updated 17th May 2013 |
Right-Angled and 1 Isosceles Triangle
Measurements:
Length = 1/2 neck circumference + shoulder slope + length from shoulder
= 1/2 <=============> + <==========> + <=============>
Width = actual width of your fabric.
A length of fabric is cut into 3 pieces. These pieces are then joined at the apex. 2 lengths of fabric yield 6 pieces to make up part of a circle. The finished size depends on the original width of fabric.
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After asssembly, the cloak will become a conical cloak. Read about the conical cloak and see if it is suitable for the style you have chosen.
ss
Triangular Cut - 2 Right-Angled Triangles
Measurements
1/2 neck circumference + shoulder slope + length from shoulder.
1/2 <============> + <=========> + <=============>
A length of fabric is cut into 2 triangles. The method of cutting must be correct. Set A must mirror Set B. I have labelled the pieces with coloured suns so you may see better.
From the above diagram, the piece marked with an orange sun is flipped and the reverse used to make up the cloak if total number of pieces is not in multiple of 4's. Choose the opening to be on the straight grain; red / green for example.
Weakness of Method:
None of the pieces are balanced weight-wise as in an isosceles triangle. Therefore, the drape will not be very good.
Advantage of Method:
Lesser number of pieces to sew compared to the isosceles triangle and the trapezoid method.
1/2 <============> + <=========> + <=============>
A length of fabric is cut into 2 triangles. The method of cutting must be correct. Set A must mirror Set B. I have labelled the pieces with coloured suns so you may see better.
From the above diagram, the piece marked with an orange sun is flipped and the reverse used to make up the cloak if total number of pieces is not in multiple of 4's. Choose the opening to be on the straight grain; red / green for example.
Weakness of Method:
None of the pieces are balanced weight-wise as in an isosceles triangle. Therefore, the drape will not be very good.
Advantage of Method:
Lesser number of pieces to sew compared to the isosceles triangle and the trapezoid method.
ss
Circular - Cuts
This topic explains the 'Full-Circle" cutting method. It is 3 of the 6 different cutting methods used for making cloaks and capes. I have highlighted the relevant measurements using coloured arrows in the diagram below:
Click pictures to inspect the way the grain of fabric runs.
How you place fabric before you cut your pattern will affect the drape of the finished article. Ideally, you want to have the grain of fabric run lengthwise at the front.
Full-Circle
For an adult full-length cloak, expect to be lugging about 10 yards of fabric at the hem.Personally I abandoned this pattern after trying a 7/8th circle cloak that I had partially made. Perhaps this picture may help you decide.
Measurements:
( shoulder slope + 1/2 neck circumference + length from shoulder ) x 2
(<==========> + 1/2 <=============> + <============> ) x 2
- 1 or more pieces are joined.
- Pieces may be a combination of 2 quarter circles (front portion) and 1 semi circle (back portion).
- Final shape would be an ovoid.
3-Piece Full-Circle
Use this method when:- fabric is not wide enough
- you want to easily accommodate slits for arms, belt or backpack.
- you want to add piping or tape for accent.
Measurements
Center Piece:
width = shoulder width
<==========>
length = ( length from nape ) x2
( <==========> ) x 2
Side Pieces
width = length from shoulder
<==========>
length = ( length from nape ) x 2
( <==========> ) x 2
Center Piece:
width = shoulder width
<==========>
length = ( length from nape ) x2
( <==========> ) x 2
Side Pieces
width = length from shoulder
<==========>
length = ( length from nape ) x 2
( <==========> ) x 2
Half-Circle
Usually 1 semi-circle or 2 quarter circles are joined.Measurements:
( shoulder slope + 1/2 neck circumference + length from shoulder ) x 2
( <========> + 1/2 <==============> + <=============>) x 2
Weakness of method:
Grain of fabric runs with the opening but crosswise at the back of garment. The garment drapes well at the front but widthwise at the back. As a result, after a few wearings and launderings, the back portion will begin to shorten.
Refer to diagram below to further understand the concept of with and against the grain.
Advantage of method:
Lesser number of pieces to join especially for child-sized capes when a single piece of 45" length would suffice for the super-hero cape.
For thick blanket-type fabrics, this method is favourable if drape is unimportant. Who is going to critisize drape as you go gallivanting in the woods anyway! Sure....the squirrels and birds are just now compiling a list.
Special Construction Tip
Since humans are not cylindrically-shaped,pre-cutting circles result in uneven hem when donning the garment.Avoid taking a short-cut by making a circle using the chalk and string method. Join the pieces first if making project from more than 1 piece. Prepare neckline and user don it. Only then the hem is marked and cut.
Reason:
Marking the hem from floor ensures truer curve. Imagine a person with a XXX bust, pot belly, wide hips........get it? Anyway...the shoulder will already cause an ovoid shape.
Check these out before plunging into your project:
- Basic knowledge-very important!
- Fabric samples
- Museum pictures
- Vintage pictures
- Hood pictures
- Cutting methods
ss
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