Trapezoid Cut

Measurements
shoulder slope + length from shoulder = 1 fabric length
<=========>  + <=============> = 1 fabric length

Determining width of <===>
I shall use the figure 22" as the size of finished neckline.

Total number of <===> = size of finished neckline
                        6 <===> = 22”
Therefore       1  <===> = 22 ÷ 6
                                        ≈3.5”

Make this figure 4".  It will be smaller after joining.

For those skilled with joining narrow pieces, make the total number of  <===> as 4 per length of fabric.  If you can't fathom this, just use the figure 3 per piece.  This will also result in same width fabric radiating from the neckline.  Perimeter of hem will be reduced by total number of <===>.  The difference will not be much.


Joining the trapezoid cut cloak

The above diagram is based on 3 lengths of 54"-wide fabric.  The extra trapezoid was made into a 'Harry Potter' hood.  The shoulder is not shaped.

Measurements:

8 <===> = circumference of final neckline (10 <====> if you prefer to sew narrow pieces).

There was no hem allowance because the shoulder slope already provides for it since the neckline starts at the beginning of the shoulder slope.  Neckline will be smaller after joining and this becomes the neckline hem allowance.




Conclusion:

• The trapezoid cut is best for gathers, wide necklines and shaped shoulders.
• The triangular cut is best for cloaks without shoulders and small necklines.
• The circular cut is fine for thick blanket-like fabrics or if drape at the back of cape is unimportant.

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