| Updated 15th May 2013 |
his topic emphasise the wastage of using the cutting methods below.
Circular:
- half-circle
Triangular:
- 2-piece
- 3-piece
A conical cloak is the result of assembly of the above methods. The wastage is applicable to styles of cloaks with:
The assembled pieces are folded into a cone as shown in diagram below. The diagram shows where the original length will be further shortened......errr....where I messed-up.
Click image to enlarge
- wide / large necklines
- shoulders
- gathers on the necklines
The assembled pieces are folded into a cone as shown in diagram below. The diagram shows where the original length will be further shortened......errr....where I messed-up.
Click image to enlarge
Calculating extra fabric required to attain desired length:
Where neckline begins = extra length to be added to achieve desired length.
For a slim adult, the neckline is about 16". Assume neckline to be a circle with circumference 16". Radius is assumed to be length from apex to neckline.
2πr = 16
r = 16 ÷ ( 2 π)
r = 8 ÷ 3.142
r = 2.54"
2.54" will be the minimum length removed from the apex for full-circle cloak
If your cloak is conical,greater length will be removed because to get the same neckline measurement one needs to go further from the apex. To reduce the 'choke factor', the neckline will be increased to at least 22".
2πr = 22
= 22÷ (2π r)
r = 3.5"
3.5" will be the minimum length removed from the apex for a full-circle cloak
If you want to add pleats and shaped shoulder......greater length will be removed from the apex. I chose this one without thinking that a cone does not behave like a rectangular-based kirtle!
Weakness of method:
I have read on the net....Add 10" to the overall length - this is a logical figure. 10" x 2 lengths of fabric means purchasing another 20" to compensate for the wasted fabric above the neckline.
Those who love to enter pageants / to save the world from rubbish / to save money / to avoid headaches of calculations should use the trapezoid method instead.
If you wish to stick to the triangular cuts, you may use this cones calculator.
sk
Where neckline begins = extra length to be added to achieve desired length.
For a slim adult, the neckline is about 16". Assume neckline to be a circle with circumference 16". Radius is assumed to be length from apex to neckline.
2πr = 16
r = 16 ÷ ( 2 π)
r = 8 ÷ 3.142
r = 2.54"
2.54" will be the minimum length removed from the apex for full-circle cloak
If your cloak is conical,greater length will be removed because to get the same neckline measurement one needs to go further from the apex. To reduce the 'choke factor', the neckline will be increased to at least 22".
2πr = 22
= 22÷ (2π r)
r = 3.5"
3.5" will be the minimum length removed from the apex for a full-circle cloak
If you want to add pleats and shaped shoulder......greater length will be removed from the apex. I chose this one without thinking that a cone does not behave like a rectangular-based kirtle!
- The bigger the neckline, the more fabric is wasted
- The greater the amount of pleats and gathers, the more fabric is required.
- The wider the shaped shoulder, the more the cloak is shortened.
- Accuracy of calculaton is not for the mathematically challenged. I shan't start on the perimeter of base of cone.
I have read on the net....Add 10" to the overall length - this is a logical figure. 10" x 2 lengths of fabric means purchasing another 20" to compensate for the wasted fabric above the neckline.
Those who love to enter pageants / to save the world from rubbish / to save money / to avoid headaches of calculations should use the trapezoid method instead.
If you wish to stick to the triangular cuts, you may use this cones calculator.
sk
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