Cutting Methods

Updated 15th May 2013






http://www.fromoldbooks.org/Tymms-Illuminating/







efore cutting your fabric, you need to take measurements.  The diagram below shows the relevant measurements.  To simplify matters, all measurements are represented by coloured arrows throughout this post.





diagram of body measurements for a circular cloak
Relevant body measurements

Basically, there are 3 cutting methods:

Circular:
  • full-circle
  • half-circle
  • 3-piece circle

Triangular:
  • 2-piece
  • 3-piece

Trapezoid:
  • the narrower end of the trapezoid is dependent on the size of neckline

6 cutting methods are represented by diagram below.  Refer to coloured arrows from the diagram of 'Body Measurements' above.

Click pictures to enlarge and observe how grain of fabric is aligned to your pattern before cutting.  Cutting fabric with or against the grain of fabric will affect the overall drape of your project.


Cutting MethodsMeasurementsFabric Types
cutting method for full-circle cape
full-circle 
(shoulder slope
+ ½ neck circumference
+ length from shoulder) x 2

<===> + ½ <===> <===> ) x 2




  • without nap
  • reversible
  • irreversible
  • non-directional pattern
  • cutting the 3-piece full-circle cloak
    3-piece full-circle
    Center Piece
    width = shoulder width
    <===>

    length = ( length from nape ) x 2
    <===> ) x 2
    --------------------------------------------
    Side Pieces
    width = length from shoulder
    <===>

    length = ( length from nape ) x 2
    <===> ) x 2



  • without nap
  • reversible
  • irreversible
  • non-directional pattern
  • semi-circular cut
    half-circle 



    (½ neck circumference
    + shoulder slope
    + length from shoulder) x 2

     (½ <===> + <===> <===>) x  2


  • without nap
  • reversible
  • irreversible
  • non-directional pattern
  • cut fabric into 2 triangles
    2 right-angled triangles 
    (½ neck circumference
    + shoulder slope
    + length from shoulder) x 2

    (½ <===> + <===> + <===>) x  2




  • without nap
  • reversible
  • irreversible (multiple of 4's)
  • non-directional pattern
  • cutting fabric into 2 right-angled and 1 isosceles triangles
    2 right angled & 1 isosceles triangle 
    (½ neck circumference
    + shoulder slope
    + length from shoulder) x 2

    (½ <===> + <===> + <===>) x  2





  • without nap
  • reversible
  • irreversible
  • non-directional pattern
  • rectangular fabric cut into 3 trapezoids
    3 trapezoids 
    shoulder slope
    + length from shoulder
    <===> + <===>

    Total number of <===>
    = circumference of final neckline



  • without nap
  • reversible
  • irreversible
  • non-directional pattern









  • ss

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