Hood
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The hood was designed to join the cape at an acute angle to help it stay on the head better.
The lining was generously pleated as a fashion accent; the end cut off to reduce bulk and gathered with a hole to allow a fishing weight through to set the drape when not in use.
Other than that, you can secretly stash cash or maybe that note from that lecher down the road because you haven't quite finished giggling at it yet!
Arm Slits
Arm slits located within a joint using the bound cloth buttonhole method. A simpler method can also be used. |  |  |
Right side:
The ends are strengthened using fine zig-zag stitches.
Wrong side: I finished the slit by hand stitching to make it less visible. You may want to make the slit visible by using contrasting colours or thin leather/suede for a rugged look.
Cape
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French seam used to join pieces rather than overlocking to reduce snagging, for a neat appearance and to withstand frequent laundering. The bottom hem is bought bias binding. A self-made bias binding of the same fabric would make the hem bulky.
To hide and protect 'beadwork' stitches, a wide front facing was applied. A wide facing allows the fabric to drape better. Weights placed in the hem can also be used to achieve this.
Arthur's Cape
| An easy beginner's cape |
Hem is self-folded. Using bias-binding will reduce the crinkling of hems i.e. if you aren't bothered about period authenticity. The openings has wider hems for better drape.
Neck opening seemed to be faced with bias-cut fabric attached from the wrong side and folded over to the right side.
Beaded Embroidery
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Beaded embroidery on pocket located below the shoulder using thread, glass beads and semi-precious stones. Some of the beads and threads are close to the colour of the hood lining BUT you know the computer does not show true colours.
The pocket is double-stitched for strength and to support the weight of beads. Thick interfacing used for the opening to stop pocket from sagging.
Accessories
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I made a crystal tassel to help the hood drape better.
A hat pin to keep the hood on for windy days or as a lapel pin. I had it made at a custom jewellery shop using Swarovski crystals and fresh-water pearls. The pin is a darning needle!
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No, wait... I need a tutorial of how to actually make Arthur's cape... do you know where I can get one?
ReplyDeleteArthur's is a circular cape (between half and 3/4 circular cape depending on your fabric width. Use the Trapezoid Cut to save fabric. The shoulders are shaped for a better fit. Take careful measurement of your shoulder and final size of neckline. If you are unsure of how to execute the above cape; let me have your measurements (measuring methods also in the above link) and the width of your fabric.
DeleteI shall help you design your cloak. Remember that fabrics with nap are unsuitable unless you are willing to waste another 100% of the same fabric. I have spent so many hours seeking for tutorials of the above BUT there isn't a specific one BECAUSE shaped shoulders require a design unique to your shoulder width, cutting method and fabric width.
Love your how to on capes/cloaks. I have a bunch of fabric bought with the intention of making a full lenght cloak for my 5 year old daughter for christmas but I'm not too experienced with the cutting/ pattern side of things and wondered if you could point me in the right direction with measurements etc to get me started. I'm not lining it and the fabric I have has a lovely fall, velvet like with a stretch in one direction. She measures nape of neck to ground aprox 93cm, slope of shoulder 10cm and neck circumference 30cm. Not sure which pattern to go with for a nice full flowing cloak and any advice would be sooooooo welcome :)
ReplyDeletePs. On your page showing examples of different style cloaks, the very last full length hooded red cloak is the one I would love to recreate. Clueless though as to which method was used!!
ReplyDelete